Argentine football passion up close: what to expect at your first Boca game

La Bombonera is a world apart. Here's what you need to know

As a lifelong fan raised by a football fanatic, Argentine football culture was almost mythic to me growing up. I’d seen the throngs of fans rushing the streets of Buenos Aires after the 2022 World Cup on television, but have never experienced their passion in person. When the opportunity to see one of the most prolific examples of this almost religious fervor presented itself, my father and I jumped at the chance.

Last Sunday, we attended a Boca Juniors home match against Sarmiento, and it truly lived up to the hype surrounding Argentina football fans. 

Boca Juniors is one of the most fabled football clubs in the world, as well as exclusive. Getting tickets to one of their games as a newcomer is extremely difficult, but if you manage to snag them it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Here’s what you need to know in case you ever get the chance as well. 

How to get tickets 

As mentioned above, it is incredibly hard as a visitor to get into a Boca game. The stadium, the iconic La Bombonera, technically only allows official fans in. However, you can get around this rule by either buying or renting a fan ticket from an officially registered member. Either find a local who is willing to loan theirs out, or many hotels offer services,albeit pricey, to obtain a fan ticket. My dad found our tickets through the hotel he stayed in. All we had to do was wait in the hotel lobby to be picked up by the service and then got our fan tickets. 

Getting there

The streets along La Bombonera are packed already hours before the game begins. Many of the hotel services, including the one we used, have a van pickup and drop off that you can arrange which lets you out in front of the west side of the stadium as well. It is recommended for many visitors to exercise caution in La Boca at night, so for evening games getting dropped off may be the best option. 

Don’t worry about missing out on the fan festivities by not walking; we were quickly greeted upon stepping into the van by several kids younger than 10 already singing the Boca Juniors anthem and banging on the window. It quickly became apparent that this isn’t just a sports team — it’s a family tradition passed down from generation to generation.

At the stadium

Like any major sporting event, you’ll have to go through security and several rounds of showing your tickets. Keep in mind that if you’re going in a group, stadium officials will break you up by binary gender for security scans. After that, it’s important to keep your ticket in your right hand to scan to enter. You won’t be able to explore the outside of the stadium; instead, stadium officials will direct you to the section your seat is in. 

Once you’re in your section, however, you can walk around that area. Get as close to the fan section as possible, which is right behind the goal. This is practically an entire wall behind one of the goals filled with Boca faithful; with a nearly vertical stadium, the fans seem to be on top of each other. Even two hours before the game, as this section started to fill up, the fans were starting to sing and dance. The seats we had were in the lower half of the stadium, so if you have those as well, definitely walk to the first row of the stands before the game to get up close to the field. 

In terms of stadium food, there are traditional Argentinian empanadas and other snacks, such as a meat patty similar to a hamburger. It got quite cold as the game started, so it helps to buy hot coffee from one of the vendors walking around the stadium. It’ll also help get your energy up to match the fans’ level. I saw women the same age as my grandmother jumping up and down with the rest. Fans would intermittently take up the “Boca!” call almost like a battle cry, and the others would quickly join in. 

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If you use a service provided by your hotel, chances are you’ll be dropped off at the stadium quite early before the game to make sure you beat the crowd getting inside. In my case, I had two whole hours to kill, so bring a fully-charged phone. 

However, once you get within the hour of the match, the real fun starts. Boca fans are known for being some of the most passionate in the world, and they definitely live up to that reputation.

When the opposing team walked out for warm-ups, I thought at first that every woman in the stadium was screaming. I instead realized that the Boca fans were whistling at them with a shrillness I didn’t think possible. If you’re going with small children, invest in a pair of concert-style headphones or earplugs for them. 

The closer you get to the game, the louder the fans will get. Once the game starts, their singing doesn’t stop, minus a 15-minute break for half-time. If you want to join in on the fun, there are plenty of Youtube videos with numerous songs to learn. Don’t be surprised by the colorful language: some of the lyrics go far beyond any traditional fan chants you’d hear at an American sporting event. 

Even if you don’t know the lyrics, however, the energy is quite contagious. Although the game itself took a while to pick up with a scoreless first half, if you have a chance to go to a Boca game it’ll be an unforgettable experience. 

Quick notes

  • Boca’s colors are blue and yellow; either dress in those colors or wear something neutral. Do not wear red and white, the colors of Boca’s rival team River Plate
  • There’s no need to bring a clear bag for your belongings: unlike most stadiums in the US, there’s just a quick bag check before you go in
  • Dress warmly and bring layers, especially if you’re going to a night game
  • There is no alcohol served at the stadium, so say goodbye to that half-time beer
  • You’ll only be with other Boca fans — after a long history of violent clashes, Argentina banned away fans from home games

It takes a minute to leave the stadium, so it’s best to leave as soon as the game ends if you are in a hurry. Otherwise, especially if there’s a Boca victory, stick around to see the celebration of the fans continue. If you’ve learned the lyrics to their songs ahead of time, you can even join along with them.

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