“Good luck finding a place to eat.”

If you’re a vegan who’s new to Buenos Aires, you’ve probably heard the refrain before. In 2022, Argentina topped Uruguay, the United States, Australia, and Brazil for the unofficial title of World’s Most Carnivorous Nation, consuming a staggering 52 kg (approximately 115 lbs) of beef per capita. The Chamber of Industry and Commerce of Meat and Derivatives (CICCRA, by its Spanish acronym) has predicted this figure will fall this year amid inflation in excess of 140%, but still. That’s a lot of red meat!

While asado is likely to remain a staple of the Argentine diet for the foreseeable future, the nation’s vegan culture has grown by leaps and bounds in recent years. According to the Argentine Vegan Union (UVA, by its Spanish acronym), veganism grew from 9 to 12% in 2020. Today, there are countless such restaurants scattered across Buenos Aires, to say nothing of the city’s vast array of grocery stores, health food shops, and specialty markets.

Some of these eateries are strictly vegan, while others offer a mix of plant and meat-based dishes. Whatever your diet, however, a perfectly grilled seitan or a delicious, lactose-free pizza is likely only a SUBE ride away.

We at the Herald haven’t yet had the chance to sample all of the vegan delights that Buenos Aires has to offer, but here are some of our favorite restaurants across the city — and a few ideas about what you might try to order. 

Our 10 favorite vegan restaurants

Y La Vaca Chocha (San Juan 409, 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m., Tuesday to Friday, 12 p.m. to 6 p.m., Saturdays and Sundays) — This hole in the wall off of Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo offers a variety of tofu dishes, salads, and plant-based burgers. It’s also one of the best vegan take-out joints in the city.

Naturaleza Sabia (Perú 677, 9 a.m. to 11 p.m., Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Sunday) — Great for brunch or an intimate dinner, Naturaleza Sabia has something for every palate, from soy-based milanesas and seitan with whole wheat rice to vegetable ñoquis and quinoa medallions with fresh vegetables. Don’t skip on the bread pudding for dessert.  

Mudrá (Córdoba 3942 and Avenida de Los Lagos 7010, 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., all week) — This chic eatery in Palermo and Tigre, Buenos Aires Province, has an almost aquatic design (imagine eating inside of a giant piece of coral) with a diverse menu ranging from plant-based sushi nikkei to burritos and burgers.

Let it V (Costa Rica 5865, 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m., Wednesday to Monday, and Corrientes 1660, 9 a.m. to 12 a.m., all week) — The menus for each location vary, but both are 100% plant-based and gluten-free. We’re especially partial to the bife de tofu, which is cooked with different Chinese spices, including sweet chili, avocado, pickles, and sesame, among other ingredients.

Pizza Vegana (Puan 662, Chile 882, Iberá 2802, José Cubas 3428, Buenos Aires City, Libertador 1522, Pueyrredón 46, Gdor. Inocencio Arias 2952, 8 p.m. to 11:30 p.m., all week) — Sometimes, you just crave a slice of pizza. Fortunately, there are Pizza Vegana locations across Buenos Aires City and Province, each offering gluten-free pies free of animal derivatives, cholesterol, and lactose.

La Vegana Cantina (Moreno 1400, 1 p.m. to 11 p.m., Wednesday and Thursday, 1 p.m. to 12 a.m. Friday and Saturday, 1 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday) — This charming cantina in Congreso makes for a great stop after a visit to the Palacio Barolo, with a decadent chocolate “Matilda” cake and delicious empanadas on their exclusively vegan menu. It also offers catering if you’re planning on hosting a vegan get-together.

Artemisia (Costa Rica 5893, 12 p.m. to 12 a.m., all week) — A Palermo veggie institution, Artemisia has some of the finest vegan cuisine on this list, with delectable entrees like polenta lasagna and Lebanese meatballs made with lentils. It also has a great gift shop if you’re in the market for some spices and fragrances.

Buenos Aires Verde (Gorritti 5657, 9 a.m. to 12 a.m., Monday to Saturday) — Established by acclaimed chef Mauro Massimino, this terrific Palermo eatery features different woks and raw foods, along with a plethora of cakes, sourdough breads, and baked goods. Many of its dishes are vegan; others are merely vegetarian. 

Sacro (Costa Rica 6038, 12 p.m. to 12 a.m., Tuesday to Sunday) — As stylish as it is delicious, Sacro is one of the best restaurants in the city, vegan or otherwise, with a tapas-like menu designed for you to sample its plant and mushroom-based delicacies. The kimchi dumplings are not to be missed, but brace yourself for the check.

Sampa (Raúl Scalabrini Ortiz 769, 12:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. bar only, 8 p.m. to 12 a.m. bar and salon, Tuesday to Saturday) — Sampa has our vote for the best vegan parrilla in the city, with highlights like grilled oyster mushrooms and pureed beans and keppe stuffed with potatoes and portobellos. The restaurant doesn’t take reservations, so be sure to arrive early if you’re hoping to nab a table.

A few of our favorite things

Part of the charm of these eateries is that you don’t have to be vegan or even a vegetarian to enjoy their expansive menus. The asado at Sampa, for example, is bound to widen your culinary horizons, as will the plant-based nikkei at Mudrá, which combines the best of Japanese and vegan cuisine.

Other favorites include Sacro’s kimchi dumplings (among the more delicious ways to improve your gut health), Artemesia’s polenta lasagna (almost sinfully good), and Let It V’s bife de tofu (so flavorful you won’t believe it’s not an actual cut of beef).

As the Herald has reported in detail, Argentina’s food culture is rapidly growing and evolving, with established eateries earning international recognition and new restaurants springing up across the capital. Its vegan cuisine is no less worthy of exploration.