Argentina‘s foremost expression of Marca País (national branding) in the culinary world is the Michelin three-star and former World’s 50 Best number one (2019) Mauro Colagreco of Mirazur restaurant in the south of France. A true beacon of talent, the La Plata-born chef has set the bar not just for Argentine chefs but for innovative cooks around the world. 

In the past few years, his stars have shone increasingly brighter, following openings in Tokyo with Cycle and Raffles London at The OWO — two cities that gastronomically scream “you’ve made it!” Sustaining their excellence, however, is a different story. Fortunately, Colagreco has been doing a fantastic job, and Marca País recognized his talents and efforts more than a decade ago.

Historically, up-and-coming Argentine talents have flown the coop in search of greener pastures and the far more rewarding (and equally green) dollar — although the U.S. hasn’t always been the destination of choice for those looking to gain kitchen experience.

Spain, however, is one for obvious reasons. The language, for one, as well as the relative ease of having the necessary papers to work there, and not just in the capital. In Valencia, Carito Lourenço and Germán Carrizo, from Córdoba and Mendoza, respectively, clocked up a red star for Fierro, a tiny fine-dining spot that serves just 12 diners.

More recently, the next generation also just picked up its first star. The one to watch is Chispa Bistró, led by young gun Juan D’Onofrio. This chef recently returned to Buenos Aires to cook with Maxi Rossi at Ultramarinos, a 2024 opening that was included in the Michelin Argentina guide. He brought flavors from the Spanish mountains to the Belgrano-based restaurant that specializes in seafood and shellfish

Madrid-based D’Onofrio is also a co-owner of Planta Baja, which opened in 2024. While it has a solid signature cocktail list, it’s also a suitable refuge for those thirsty for a Fernandito in the Spanish capital. 

Another recent entrée is the talented Lis Ra. After almost a year of dividing her time between Argentina and Spain, she shuttered her Chacarita restaurant Na Num earlier this year and decided to dedicate all her energies there with her Korean restaurant of the same name in the Chueca neighborhood. It is, of course, understandable given the continued turbulence of Argentina‘s economy. After all, who wouldn’t take the opportunity to be able to plan long-term for your business while also earning a stable currency such as euros?

Bartenders are also making waves

As for the bar scene, Argentine names are also making waves in Spain. La Plata-born Diego Cabrera has been shaking up the cocktail scene in Madrid with his 50 Best Bar Salmon Guru for more than a decade. Two years ago, bartending legend Tato Giovannoni opened a Barcelona outpost of his Retiro-based hidden bar and restaurant Florería Atlántico. Behind the stick, you’ll find a familiar face in Ema Giacone, the Fernet Branca ambassador who, until recently, led Barcelona dive bar Creps Al Born.

It’s not Giovannoni’s first foray into foreign pastures. He previously led a bar in London’s Soho in the basement of Fernando Trocca’s Sucre but just last month he and business partner Alex Resnik pulled out all the stops to open Brasero Atlántico — in Bahrain. 

There are heaps of other notable names out there: Agustín Balbi and his one-star Ando in Hong Kong, Diego Jacquet of Zoilo in London, plus this month’s opening of a Miami outpost of Niño Gordo (disclaimer: I work for the latter as its wine consultant). One in particular, however, is having quite the impact in Moscow. 

Following several years as Virgilio Martínez’ right hand at Central in Lima, Nicanor Vieyra opened Olluco for him in Russia in 2021. In 2024, he was named Best Chef of the Year by the prestigious Where To Eat Moscow guide, while Olluco was named the best restaurant in the city. Not bad for the Belgrano-born chef who took the plunge to move there during the pandemic without a word of Russian to his name. He continues to come good: this year, Vieyra was named best chef by Where To Eat Russia, while Olluco claimed second place in the same awards. 

Following many years in Lima, his former Central stablemate Bernabé Simón Padrós, a Salta-born chef, recently left acclaimed Peruvian restaurant Kjolle, a World’s 50 Best regular, for new pastures. What’s he cooking up next? I’ve got a good idea that his pastures new might take him to old friends, plus it’s exciting news that there’s another Argentine talent loose in the world. 

Returning to Marca País, few of the aforementioned have been blessed with this recognition. In fact, the title is valid for just two years before expiring, which can be easily explained in terms of refreshing the crop of talent. But, perhaps it should be considered like an Olympic medal and stay with you for life because it would have a greater impact in terms of flying Argentina’s food and drinks flag around the world.

Cover photo: Planta Baja in Spain (image courtesy of Planta Baja)