Clusters of pine trees and yellow-blossomed shrubs shade the dirt roads leading to the beach. Long stretches of dark sand and smooth shells span along the coast as cold gray waves break on the shore.

Worn lifeguard stands and stray dogs pepper the beach. Chances are it’s windy, and the weather probably calls for sunglasses, a scarf, and a mate in hand.

The coast of Buenos Aires province is a summer staple for Argentines, with the immensely popular city of Mar del Plata just hours away from the city. But there are many smaller seaside towns dotting the shoreline that are well worth the visit — here’s what you need to know.

Where to go

There’s a collection of smaller beach towns to the southeast of Buenos Aires that are far enough away from the city to feel like you’re on vacation but close enough for a weekend getaway or a mellow week at the beach. These are our favorites, and what kind of trip each one is ideal for:

Mar de las Pampas: This peaceful getaway is the spot to go if you’re looking to unwind and disconnect or if you want to spend a week working remotely, filling your lunch breaks with beach walks. The town’s focus on eco-tourism and sustainable development has protected the surrounding nature and prevented overcrowding.

There’s a small grouping of shops and restaurants that make up the urban core of Mar de las Pampas, a lazy area with dirt roads and tall trees. At night fairy lights decorate the space, giving it a dreamy atmosphere. Nearby, Mar Azul has a similar laid-back vibe, with less of a town center.

Cariló: About a half hour drive to the north of Mar de las Pampas lies Cariló, similar in its sandy streets and pine tree covering, but much more upscale. Cariló draws the attention of Argentina’s upper classes — which pricing in the area reflects. 

Fusing luxury with the natural environment, the town is designed to blend in with the surrounding pine forest. The center is impeccable, with designer shops, extravagant supermarkets, and fine dining. The area is at least worth a stop for ice cream and a window-shopping stroll through — you’re likely to spot familiar faces of the Argentine elite.

Valeria del Mar and Ostende are two nearby towns that don’t share Cariló’s high price point or level of fanciness but hold their own quaint beachy charm.

Villa Gesell and Pinamar: If you’re looking for more nightlife and metropolitan vibes, these are both bigger areas that, while they lack the small-town laid back vibes, you’ll find the convenience of the city with a beach backdrop. 

Where to eat

El Nido Bistro: When a restaurant claims that its inspiration comes from the “woods and the sea,” it’s normally worth an eye-roll, but El Nido Bistro somehow manages to not only pull it off but do so with an attention to detail that will have you booking your next reservation before you even finish your meal. 

With a seasonal menu featuring dishes such as venison medallion sous vide wrapped in spinach and prosciutto with a red berry sauce and pomegranate molasses. Or chocolate macaroon alfajores alongside smoked bourbon ice cream, caramelized pistachios, toffee sauce, candied kumquats, and white chocolate ganache.

Located on Joaquín V. González and Benito Lynch in Mar de las Pampas, the restaurant has a warm, cabin-like atmosphere. Be aware that if you visit during the off-season, it may be closed.

Amorinda Tutto Pasta: It’s hard to get a table at this pasta house even in the down season, which should tell you a lot. Located on Gerchunoff in Mar de las Pampas, this spot offers a menu of handmade pastas with subtle twists on the classics and an extensive wine list.

Expect dishes like Besitos de Julia — ravioli with arugula, ricotta, almonds, and goat cheese in a tomato sauce with balsamic vinegar and olive oil. Or La vera putanesca —  wide tagliatelle in tomato sauce with black olives, anchovies, capers and peperoncino.

A reservation is non-negotiable — make sure to be on time, otherwise they will give your table away.

Quick stops

• Parador Atalaya: Essential roadside stop en route to the seaside for these iconic medialunas. For more than 80 years, Atalaya has been a staple on Argentine trips to the coast, and there’s lore surrounding what makes the medialunas so good — is it the water of Chascomús, a secret family recipe, an ungodly amount of butter? Who knows? (National Route 2 km 113.5, Chascomús).
• El Topo Fabrica de Churros: The very first store of this well-known churro chain is located in Villa Gesell (Av. 3 970, Villa Gesell).
• Lo de Carlitos: This traditional pancake restaurant can be found all across Argentina nowadays, but the original spot was in Villa Gesell. While the first restaurant is no longer standing, you’ll find a couple of Lo de Carlitos restaurants close to its historical location.

What to do

• Bring your camera and head out on a wildlife trek. Depending on the season, you may spot orcas, sea lions, whales, penguins or toninas. When it comes to birds, you’re likely to see chimangos, gallinetas and teros.
• Take a trip to the Querandí Lighthouse, located in the middle of a natural reserve five kilometers south of Mar Azul. The reserve was created with the goal of preserving the coastal dune ecosystem and its natural flora and fauna
• Rent a bike and make your way up the coast, explore the beach on a quad, or take a sandboarding class in Mar de las Pampas.
• Take off on a horseback riding expedition that will bring you through the forests, dunes, and beaches. During the full moon set out on a nighttime horseback excursion to a backdrop of overflowing stars.
• The area is a hot spot for luxury spas and hotels. After a hard day at the beach, pamper yourself with a massage or time by the pool. Carilo Village, Rincón del Duende, and Ville Saint Germain are a few of the swankier options.

• Visit the original La Pinocha Chocolates store in Mar de las Pampas at El Lucero and Santa María, and stock up on chocolates and alfajores.
• Play a round of golf at the scenic Cariló golf club, one of Argentina’s most prestigious courses.

Know before you go:

• Depending on your budget, you can make your trip as expensive or cost-effective as necessary. There are lots of choices for staying in a luxury hotel, eating out, and getting spa treatments. But there are just as many options to book low-cost accommodation, prepare your own food, and entertain yourself with free activities (hello beach!). 
• If possible, try to bring as much food for your trip with you as you can, especially if you’re planning on staying in smaller areas like Mar de las Pampas or Mar Azul. While there are some small grocery stores, there’s less selection, and things tend to be higher priced. The larger supermarkets are a bit of a drive away.
• Consider visiting the coast during the off-season, when there are fewer people, and the accommodation is cheaper. While some restaurants and activities will be closed and the weather a little chillier, there’s something to be said for having the beach all to yourself. Well, yourself and a couple of dolphins.