“Irasshaimase!”

Coziness is not the first thing most people have in mind when they think of a Japanese restaurant. But the traditional greeting every patron hears when they walk into the intimate space of UNI Omakase in Palermo debunks that notion.  

A high-end Japanese dining experience, this minimalist space consists simply of a large wooden bar with only 12 seats for a quiet and intimate atmosphere.

UNI opened in February 2022 by well-established sushiman and food entrepreneur Damián Shiizu. A first-generation Argentine, he started training in 1999 with the Komiyama family — pioneers of Japanese cuisine in the country — and now has 25 years in the business.

Conceived as a typical omakase — a term usually translated as “I leave it up to you” — UNI is all about trust and confidence in what the itamae (Japanese for head sushi chef, literally “in front of the board”) will serve you. Hence, at UNI there’s no menu, other than the 14 dishes Nicolás Cernysenko will present you with a dedicated introduction for each one.

Described by the Michelin guide as “a very pleasant surprise,” UNI’s identity feature is their matching of local fish and wines with traditional Japanese techniques and ingredients. Some of them are specially imported from Japan, like the freshwater river eel and the dark rice, which is made with a Kurosu vinegar.

UNI describes itself as a firm believer in omotenashi, a Japanese concept that can be translated as a spirit of selfless service meant to make patrons feel like guests of honor. They are also keen observers of punctuality as a sign of respect: all customers are expected to begin their dining experience at the same time. 

Rigid concepts aside, this translates simply into the care with which they work. The UNI staff were not only very mindful of contingencies like food restrictions but also keen to provide patrons with a specially-designed menu that stays away from typical fusion variants and mainstream ingredients, like the usual avocado or cream cheese. There are no rolls in UNI. 

“You’ll never eat at a franchise sushi restaurant again,” Cernysenko told the Herald with a smile on his face. The itamae not only provides the food but also the history behind it, from the origin of each ingredient to tips on sushi hot-spots like Sao Paulo in Brazil, home of the largest Japanese community outside Japan. 

The kick-off is an edamame (soybean pods boiled in salt water, served with sesame seeds), followed by a udon noodle soup. What comes next is a marvelous tour of different nigiri, tartars, and tempuras made with an array of fresh local fish like lenguado (sole), besugo (bream), or mero (grouper), all treated with some expert techniques you get to witness first-hand, such as Cernysenko’s use of olive tree splinters to perform a cold smoking process on a lisa (mugil) nigiri.

Some of the highlights include the aged Patagonian trout nigiri with sansho pepper and ponzu sauce (a soy sauce with a citrus base), served on a shiso leaf tempura. According to Cernysenko, most people praise the Argentine shrimp nigiri seared with truffle butter and topped with a truffle sheet and sea salt flakes. Our favorite? The open temaki of unagi (freshwater eel) with nori seaweed, sushi rice, kabayaki sauce and tenkasu. A true differential.

A devout follower of ancient wisdom, UNI Omakase also gives you some good advice once you make a reservation: don’t drive there. Why? Because this quiet and consistent supply of quality food is paired with sakes that can change every day, both out of choice and as a consequence of Argentina’s surreal economics, which affect the imports distributors have available. 

The selection includes the surprising Yuzushu (a liqueur based on Japanese lemon yuzu, with aromatic properties and 10.5% alcohol), the Junmai Taru (a dry sake aged in cedar barrels), the Junmai Daiginjo (featuring floral notes like cherry and jasmine) and the Honjozo (one of the most traditional, made with 70% polished rice). 

Local wines — mostly on the lighter side, such as chardonnay and rosé — are also a great match, with a sommelier always available to suggest some grape-driven ways to enhance the experience. 

UNI OMAKASE
Guatemala 5820, Palermo.

Hours:
Tuesdays to Sundays — 8.30 p.m.
Fridays: 2 shifts, at 8 p.m. and 10.30 p.m.