In Argentina, being on a first-name basis with the general public is an undeniable sign of popular appeal. Narda Lepes is one of the only chefs in the country who enjoys this privilege.

A cook, businesswoman, entertainer, and influencer with a direct, informal, and irreverent style, Narda is a top name of Argentine gastronomy, and a fervent advocate of healthy eating for adults and children alike. 

Her extensive career includes popular cooking shows on radio and TV, several best-selling books, and conferences everywhere. She opened and managed several restaurants in Buenos Aires, and was named the 2020 Best Woman Chef in Latin America by ‘The World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ ranking. Narda was the first — and so far the only — Argentine woman to achieve this honor. Her two restaurants in Buenos Aires, each with quite different and original identities, were included in the 2024 Michelin guide’s recommendations.

Narda Comedor is an ample, sunlight-filled restaurant that opened seven years ago in Nuñez with the goal of taking patrons out of their comfort zone and bringing them new flavors. In a meat-loving country, Narda seeks to highlight the flavor of vegetables and give them the same leading role as proteins without offering a strictly vegetarian menu. 

Two years ago, Narda opened Japanese restaurant Kõnã Corner together with her business partner and friend, the award-winning bartender Inés de los Santos. A few doors down from Narda Comedor, Kõnã offers a tour through Asian flavors via a fine dining experience that focuses on food, cocktails, design, and a sophisticated ambiance housed in a two-story venue that also includes… a karaoke room! 

The Herald spoke to Lepes about Buenos Aires gastronomy and fine dining. The interview has been lightly edited for length and clarity.

What led you to gastronomy?

It was the most natural thing. I love food, and ever since I was young I have liked to eat good food. So I started to learn how food was made and what made something taste good. I basically went into it because of the pleasure element.

How would you define your cooking and the Narda Comedor experience?

My cooking is very related to what I like to eat myself. However, I try to put a certain intent into everything I do and for people to understand what I put in a dish. Seasonal ingredients, vegetables, those will always be there, although not exclusively. Comedor is a restaurant where vegetables are at the same level as proteins, where flavor rules above everything else. A place where we always try to do everything in a collaborative way, where informality doesn’t mean we’re not serious, and where we do everything within our reach — and also outside of it — to make everyone feel comfortable and welcome.  

What’s your view on the current restaurant scene in Buenos Aires?

I think the restaurant scene in Buenos Aires is constantly growing, mutating. And that it’s in a process of change that began four years ago. There are very good places and others that have lost their quality. On the other hand, we are starting to see many chef-owned restaurants, smaller places, and that’s always good. Some places are struggling to respond to the demand, but others have actually managed to maintain quality despite this.

Do you think Buenos Aires’ gastronomy has an identity of its own?

Buenos Aires is an entry point, so the immigration element will always be there. The al paso (Spanish for “on the go”) is always going to be a thing. And some things are already established, like the milanesa. All that is deeply related to the identity of Argentine gastronomy, which has changed and is still in constant transformation, as happened with pizza here. That’s what this city is: a space of transformation, rather than one of a fixed identity. 

How has that identity changed and how does it coexist with new gastronomy trends?

I think there are trends for every niche. Certain kinds of people go to some places while others go to different places, and they don’t even know the other ones exist. There are places that are meant for TikTok, others that are media favorites, places for influencers, and the list goes on… So, I believe it has changed a lot. There is no single trend, there are trends for every segment. 

What sets Buenos Aires apart from other cities? 

Our nightlife used to be unique, but that’s changed a lot because everything happens earlier now. I think you can eat very well here, and that we have a certain boldness and innocence that still allows us to experiment a bit more in gastronomy.  

Would you recommend that an investor open a restaurant in Buenos Aires?

Yes, but only if you’re in the gastronomy business or have a partner with a background in the sector. If you’re not in the business and you don’t have anyone knowledgeable around you, then don’t. You can provide a perspective coming from a different industry, but considering how fast your learning process would have to be, it can cost you your business. 

It also depends on your financial support, but even those who have backing can end up feeling like ‘this is too time-consuming and it’s not making me money fast enough.’ Also, you need to know every detail of the digital world and how to communicate, because the time when you could just open your restaurant and wait for people to come is long gone. 

What’s your favorite gastronomic habit that is typical of us?

I like living in Buenos Aires, I love Argentina. I like its people and the way we relate to each other. We have a very unique love for getting together to have a meal. And not everyone loves food. I mean, I love food and I know lots of people who do too, but there are also people who love getting together for a meal. Just to see their friends or their loved ones. That’s the habit I like the most, the fact that we love getting together. 

Beyond Buenos Aires, Narda Lepes recommends:

El Papagayo, in Córdoba; El Nuevo Progreso, in Jujuy; Mauricio Couly’s La Toscana in Neuquén; Cocina Gardenia in Mendoza; and in Ushuaia, Captain Diana’s Alma Yagan, in the nearby hamlet of Puerto Almanza.