Football in Argentina is nothing short of a religion. Every weekend, thousands of fans attend games in stadiums across the country and millions more watch on TV. In 2022, footage of a collective roar as the Albiceleste conquered the World Cup went viral.

The whole nation descends into reverential fascination for 90 minutes as Lionel Messi, Emi “Dibu” Martínez, and the rest of the stars of la selección (the national team) work their magic on the pitch — and visitors often find themselves looking for the best spot to catch the magic. With that in mind, here are some of the best places to watch football games in Buenos Aires.

Sports bar culture in Buenos Aires

The first thing to note is that the notion of a sports bar isn’t quite the same in Argentina as  elsewhere. Perhaps surprisingly, given the nation’s totemic devotion to football, teams and fan groups don’t have designated bars where they meet to watch the game. Nor does the national team.

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More often than not, Argentines will meet at a friend’s house to watch the games, bringing their own food and drink or firing up the barbecue for some asado if it’s a midday match. So, seek and ye shall find: if there’s a game you want to watch, ask your football-loving friends what their plans are. Odds are, they’ll respond with an invitation.

That’s not to say Argentines don’t watch matches at bars, though. Virtually anywhere with a TV will show whatever match is on, especially if it’s a particularly important game. Some even set up big screens and host events for fans to attend, with special offers on food and drinks.

Where to watch football games in Buenos Aires

If you’re looking for a few ideas for where to watch games, here are our recommendations:

Locos x el Fútbol

Las Heras 2101, Recoleta
Instagram: Locosxelfutbolbar

Probably the closest to a sports bar in the Anglophone world, Locos x el Fútbol is one of Buenos Aires’ most famous and busiest places to watch sports, with plenty of football-themed decor. The bar has several giant screens and will show not only the biggest Argentine league and national team games, but also those of top European leagues and other international tournaments.

El Banderín

Guardia Vieja 3601, Almagro
Instagram: Barelbanderin

If you’re after a more classic Buenos Aires experience, El Banderín is one of the city’s traditional bares notables. It opened in 1923, but took its current name in the 1970s, inspired by the collection of 500 different team flags from all over the world that adorn its walls. The menu includes a selection of traditional sandwiches — to wash down with a solid selection of beers, vermouths and wines — but also a remarkably good vegan menu with animal-free takes on the classics. They don’t take reservations though, so don’t be late.

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La Puerta Roja

Chacabuco 733, San Telmo
Instagram: puertaroja.santelmo

This backpacker hangout and late-night party joint is a high-octane place to catch the game in company. There’s a broad menu of satisfyingly greasy burger-and-fry-style fare, and if you need to steady your nerves for the penalty shootout, the house special is the chilli bomb. We’re not going to explain that one, you just have to try it. There’s no sign outside this place, but the clue’s in the name. It’s typically full to bursting for major matches, so book in advance via the link in their Insta. 

Sullivan’s

Jorge Luis Borges 1702, Palermo
Instagram: sullivanspub_ba

The self-proclaimed “first Irish pub in Palermo,” Sullivan’s has become a classic for watching sport in the city. It offers a wide selection of beers and classic pub foods — including Irish beef pot pie and fish and chips — and several screens to follow one or several games at the same time. There’s plenty of room, with TVs on the first and second floor, as well as seats outside.

La Guitarrita

Branches across the city
Instagram: pizzerialaguitarrita

Founded in 1963, this traditional Buenos Aires pizza place has a major footballing connection: founders Mario Boyé and René Pontoni played for clubs including Boca Juniors and San Lorenzo. The chain has several spots across the city, all sharing an historical ambience with typical pennants, scarves and shirts from different clubs and photos and newspapers from the old days. Our pick is the Caballito restaurant, at Av La Plata 225, for its massive screen.

El Galpón de Tacuara

Av. Juramento 2781, Belgrano
Instagram: elgalpondetacuara_belgrano

If the widest possible beer selection is what you need for an improved match-viewing experience, you’ll struggle to do better than El Galpón de Tacuara. Originally from San Fernando, in Buenos Aires metro area north, their spot in Belgrano offers match-viewing events, with promos on beers and drinks and a giant screen to watch the games.

And last but not least…

Your local pizzeria

If none of these are convenient for you, fear not: wherever you are, your local pizzeria is bound to be showing the match. Case in point: Los Campeones (see cover photo), in Barracas, is just seven blocks from the Boca Juniors stadium and bedecked with sporting memorabilia. Yelling at the TV with a portion of pizza, a slice of fainá, and a cantankerous server-cum-commentator polishing the glasses? As porteño as it gets.

Cover image: Pizzeria Los Campeones, Montes de Oca 856, Barracas. Photo: Amy Booth